The Hotel des Indes has undergone a shrewd and sexy makeover that doesn't compromise the old-world atmosphere which has long been the source of this 1881 grand hotel's considerable charm. The top-to-bottom renovation succeeds through major improvements—a superb new health club with an indoor pool, sassy details such as room numbers that are displayed on a tulip vase beside the door, heated slate floors in bathrooms, and an opulent yet intimate restaurant. Afternoon tea brings in the local crème de la crème (diplomats and royals) to la crème de la crème: cream-filled pastries and tasty little sandwiches.

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